Thekkini
The House of Hunger
Review by Susan Pretty, Photos by Adrian Lysenko
Owners Als Alias, Bijil Walter, Jubin Mannaparambil Baby, and Mishal George are delighted to welcome hungry folks to their new restaurant, Thekkini, which opened last November. Bringing the tastes of the southwestern coastal state of Kerala, India, to Canada, the owners are inspired by homemade masalas and authentic traditional recipes passed down from their families
Like your dessert first? One can’t help but notice the impressive dessert case! Sweets such as gulab jamun and chocolate cake are nestled within, alongside savouries such as meat puffs and egg puffs, which are flaky morsels containing a hard-boiled egg and some really tasty sauce, perfect for grab ‘n go. They also serve falooda, something that isn’t just fun to say, but super fun to enjoy, too. Served in a parfait-style glass, this whimsical sundae is served with an abundance of fruit, vermicelli noodles, syrup, and jelly, topped with a scoop of strawberry ice-cream and sprinkles. My inner child was in heaven! The beverages deserve a special mention here, as well. From a refreshing lime mint soda to warm chai, the array of drink choices are many.
Lollipop chicken is a playful name for a fanciful dish. Showcasing all drumsticks on a plate in a sweet-and-spicy sauce, this showstopper has great visual appeal. The meat is trimmed and pushed down to the end of the bone, creating a round, “lollipop” shape with the bone as a handle, each lovingly wrapped in tinfoil to avoid burning.
Al-faham is a dish with Arabic roots, and this grilled chicken dish is a testament to that. “Faham” comes from the Arabic word for “charcoal,” reflecting the traditional cooking method. Served on a bed of spiced rice with veg on the side (and a shmear of mayo for dipping), this dish is sure to tickle all the tastebuds.
If comfort food is your jam, the beef kothu porotta is really something unique. The name comes from “kothu,” meaning ‘chopped,’ and “porotta,” which is layered, flaky flatbread. In this dish, the porottas are shredded and stir-fried with tasty beef masala, eggs, onion, and tomato. The result is a hearty, flavourful meal that is perfect for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
In the end, the owners’ promise rings true: “Come hungry, leave happy.” I couldn’t agree more.