By Chef Rachel Globensky
In “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald,” Gordon Lightfoot sang about the gales of November, and anyone who’s spent any part of November in NWO knows exactly what he meant. The trees are bare, the sky is a hazy shade of winter, and the damp wind off the lake has a way of finding its way in through your seams. Brrr.
The dogs, of course, couldn’t care less about the weather. Walk time is walk time, and they’re always good to go, regardless of wind, drizzle, or general weather misery. After we’ve all had our fill of the great outdoors, coming home to a bowl of hot soup feels like a pretty good reward.
Welcome to Soup Season.
My sweetheart is a big fan of barley soup, which works out rather nicely for me. I like a recipe that gives me a reason to putter in the kitchen while something warm and lovely simmers on the stove, especially when the alternative is staring out the window at a dreary afternoon.
This month, I’m taking inspiration from an old favourite, The Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen, and its mushroom barley soup. Mushrooms bring an earthy, savoury, umami flavour, while barley gives it a satisfying chew and magically turns a pot of stock and veg into a stick-to-your-ribs meal. It’s simple food, made with love and ordinary ingredients, and it only takes a little chopping and time on the stove.
I love a bubbling soup pot in November. The weather can do what it likes outside, and inside there’s something warm for supper, with enough left over for tomorrow or to share with a neighbour. A little extra in the pot is rarely a bad idea, especially when the days are cold and the nights are long. I’d call that a pretty good start to winter.
Mushroom Barley Soup
Serves 6–8
Ingredients
½ c uncooked pearl barley
1½ c water
1-2 Tbsp butter
1½ c chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 lb mushrooms, sliced
½ tsp salt
3–4 Tbsp soy sauce
3–4 Tbsp dry sherry
5 c water (or stock—veg or beef)
Preparation
Step 1
Place the barley and water in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer until the barley is tender (20–30 minutes).
Step 2
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a skillet. Add the onions and sauté about five minutes over medium heat.
Add garlic, mushrooms, and salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until everything is very tender, about 10–12 minutes.
Stir in soy sauce and sherry.
Step 3
Add the sauté with all its liquid to the cooked barley, along with the remaining water (or stock). Grind a generous amount of black pepper, and simmer, partially covered, for another 20 minutes over very low heat.
Taste to adjust seasonings to your preference, and serve.