Small Skis, Big Mountain

A Family Weekend at Mont Tremblant

By Adrian Lysenko

For local skiers and snowboarders, the Nor’Wester Mountains represent the best skiing between the Rocky and Laurentian Mountains. But every so often, even the most loyal TBayers feel the pull to go bigger, trading familiar slopes for something new. After Malakai, our now five-year-old son, made his first turns out west three years ago, my wife and I decided two-year-old Theo’s initiation into downhill skiing should happen in the opposite direction. So we headed east, to Mont Tremblant.

Long before it became a four-season resort, the mountain was home to the Weskarini Algonquin, who called it “Soutana Trembling”—the Trembling Mountain. They believed it was inhabited by Gitche Manitou, the Great Spirit, who caused the mountain to tremble when nature was disturbed. Today, Mont Tremblant Resort offers world-class skiing just an hour and a half northeast of Montreal, but that sense of reverence lingers. We arrived at twilight, when the clock tower and colourful chalet-style buildings flickered to life, casting a glow that lent the village a distinctly European charm. “It looks magical,” Malakai whispered.

At the heart of the pedestrian village, steps from the panoramic gondola and with direct access to the snow school, the Sommet des Neiges Hotel defines ski-in/ski-out living. Inside, the octagonal fireplace blazed while a guest played Erik Satie on the grand piano, the notes drifting through the elegant lobby creating an undeniably cosy atmosphere. The hotel is a place designed with families in mind: a children’s playroom, sauna, and outdoor hot tub make après-ski as inviting as the slopes themselves. The rooms and suites include kitchens or kitchenettes—an unsung luxury when travelling with children whose stomachs are bottomless pits.

One of the best things about staying directly in the pedestrian village is that after you make use of the indoor parking, the next time you get into your vehicle is when you head home—everything you need is walking distance. We wandered the cobblestone streets, ducking into shops and cafés.

For dinner, we opted to stock our kitchen instead, stopping at Maison Fayard, a delicatessen specializing in imported French goods. Charcuterie, Parisian-style pizza, and truffle-flavoured chips (non-negotiable) fueled us just enough before an early bedtime, the promise of fresh tracks waiting in the morning.

In a finely tuned system, hotel guests are lent combination locks and assigned lockers in the lower level to store their ski or snowboard gear, which is accessed through a separate entrance at the base of the hill. After a few warm-up runs on the magic carpet hill, we boarded the panoramic gondola, offering spectacular views of Lake Tremblant and the rolling landscape as it climbs toward one of the highest peaks in the Laurentian Mountains.

Skiing with small children (especially a two-year-old) can feel daunting, but Tremblant makes it manageable. Clear signage across the south side of the mountain points skiers toward Nansen, the easiest green route down. At nearly six kilometres, it’s the resort’s longest run: a wide and relatively flat way back to the village as it curves around the mountain. Modern teaching tools help, too. Edgie wedgies—rubber connectors that keep ski tips together—replace the shouted instructions of my youth (“make a pizza!”), and ski harnesses offer just enough control to build confidence without fear. 

Halfway down and pumped by success, Malakai declared himself ready to ski “for real.” We removed the edgie wedgies and detoured into the Tam-Tam Kids Zone, flanked by trees and carved woodland animals. A giant wooden hand marked the entrance, where kids (and maybe even adults) are encouraged to high-five.

By late morning, stomachs were rumbling and it was clear lunch couldn’t wait. Perched at the summit, Le Grand Manitou offers cafeteria-style fare with a panoramic view. Macaroni and cheese, pad Thai, chicken fingers, fries, and an excellent chicken pot pie revived the crew—at least half of us. The rest were ready for a nap, myself included.

With all the lifts closed and a much needed pick-me-up, we hopped on the free Cabriolet—an open-air lift that glides above the village—and headed to Cabane à sucre de la montagne for the classic maple taffy, where staff pour hot maple syrup in fresh snow and the kids got to roll it up themselves for a tasty treat.

Now that the boys were all hopped up on sugar and ready to sit still, we went out for dinner. Great family dining options include Resto-Bar Le Shack, offering pub fare and more, and La Pizzateria, serving up gourmet pizza and Italian dishes. Because our family can never get enough pizza, we opted for the La Pizzateria (the smoked salmon white pizza is delicious).

After a soak in the hot tub to ease sore legs, we tucked the boys into bed and finally had a rare moment to ourselves… only to spend it watching videos of them skiing down the mountain. With the day done, and Theo's first foray into downhill skiing a success, his love for the sport was cemented, as was ours for Tremblant.