Chocolate and Cheese for Cold Nights
By Chef Rachel Globensky
In writing this article, I was reminded that I’ve always loved Chocolate and Cheese, the 1994 Ween album (and my second-favourite Ween album, after 2000s White Pepper, which I probably won’t ever write about because I don’t like the flavour!). I feel like the albums (and really the band itself) never try to explain anything or fit into a box—they just exist, a little weird and happy, outside the lines. Chocolate and Cheese suggests contrast without mansplaining, kind of a gentle reminder that things don’t have to blend to belong together.
On a cold winter night recently, that idea turned out to be the perfect frame for dinner: fondue, two ways.
One of my favourite families, the Hansens, invited me out to their camp on Lake Superior for fondue and shenanigans. I immediately accepted their invite and got to baking a few goodies to bring along. I love fondue, and it—like classic (gulp!) Ween tunes—is having a moment, or maybe it never really left the spotlight at all. Fondue sets can always be found in thrift stores, quietly waiting for an opportunity like this. Fondue isn’t hurried, and that’s the point: it’s food designed to slow things down and bring people together around the table, weird bits and all.
The cheese fondue came first, all warm and gooey, slathered over the bread and veggie chunks Carly and Jon served up on large plates. Later, chocolate came out to play, with cream cheese-filled phyllo rolls (my contribution), marshmallows, and fresh fruit. The chocolate fondue and the chefs (Carly and me) were both made better with slugs of cherry brandy added in!
Conversation and laughs flowed easily; we were happy and sated, bellies and hearts full. By the end of the night, with chocolate and cheese each having had their turn, I couldn’t help thinking Ween had it right all along: It’s a real good feeling.
Cheese Fondue
Serves 4-6 people
Ingredients
1 clove garlic, halved
1 c dry white wine (Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio)
1 tsp lemon juice
200 g (7 oz) Gruyère, cut into small cubes
200 g (7 oz) Emmental, cut into small cubes
1–2 Tbsp cornstarch
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Pinch of nutmeg
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Cubed crusty bread (French, sourdough, or rye)
Veggies for dipping (broccoli, cauliflower, cherry tomatoes, bell peppers)
Preparation
Step 1
Rub the inside of a heavy saucepan with the cut garlic clove. Discard the garlic.
Step 2
Pour in the wine and lemon juice, and heat gently until steaming, but not boiling.
Step 3
While the wine warms, toss the cubed cheeses with the cornstarch until evenly coated. This helps prevent clumping and keeps the fondue smooth. Gradually add the cheese to the warm wine, stirring constantly in a figure-eight motion until melted and creamy.
Step 4
Season with freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Transfer to a fondue pot and keep warm over a low flame.
Step 5
Serve immediately with bread cubes and vegetables for dipping.
Pro tip: If the fondue becomes too thick, stir in a splash of wine to loosen it; if it’s too thin, add a little extra cornstarch-coated cheese.
Chocolate Fondue
Serves 4-6 people
Ingredients
½ c heavy cream or canned coconut milk
200 g good-quality semi-sweet or dark chocolate, chopped
1–2 Tbsp cherry brandy (kirsch or similar), to taste
Pinch of salt
½ tsp vanilla extract
Cream cheese-filled phyllo rolls
Marshmallows
Fresh fruit (berries, banana slices, apple wedges, pear slices, orange segments)
Preparation
Step 1
In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the cream until it’s just beginning to steam. Don’t let it boil.
Step 2
Remove from the heat and add the chopped chocolate. Let it sit for a minute, then stir gently until smooth and glossy.
Step 3
Stir in the cherry brandy, a pinch of salt, and vanilla. Transfer to a fondue pot or heatproof bowl and keep warm over a low flame or candle. Stir occasionally to maintain a smooth texture.
Step 4
Serve with phyllo rolls, marshmallows, and fruit, encouraging generous dipping.
Pro tip: If the chocolate thickens as it sits, stir in a splash of warm cream to loosen it back up.
