Fast-Casual Eats Beside Lakehead Beer Company
Review by Susan Pretty, Photos by Jack Barten
Pizza lovers rejoice! Tomlin Subdivision is now open and features their famous Detroit-style pizza with a variety of toppings. Tomlin Subdivision has been a labour of love for front-of house manager Krista Hansen and kitchen managers Cam Prest and John Caron (who affectionately call Hansen “mom”).
The three have been hard at work for eight months prior to opening, and the result is nothing short of spectacular. The restaurant adjoins the Lakehead Beer Company, the friendliest neighbours ever, and the partnership is more than ideal. The menu consists of approachable, snackable, pub style fare with flair, ranging from good old-fashioned wings (purchased whole and fresh and split in-house) to pork belly and arancini.
The subs are packed full of meat—the Italian is a house favourite. All dipping sauces are made inhouse, and the wings could almost be just a vehicle to get at the dip. The pizza’s unique shape got its start in Motor City back when the auto era was emerging. Baked in a rectangular shaped pan, this ‘za employs the art of “frico”: when the cheese meets the side of the pan, a crispy, browned crust forms and makes for a lacy ledge, which adds an extra-savoury crunch. Caron wants to talk about the dough, though. “It’s a four day process,” he explains. The trio did so much testing they (almost) didn’t want to see a pizza again, but thanks to a weather tracker and humidity check, they landed on the best possible blend. “It’s like a focaccia with toppings.” And the toppings! Fried chicken with buffalo sauce and blue cheese and bacon. Mortadella with pistachio and arugula pesto. All told, there’s a dozen different pies to choose from. If this doesn’t sound good enough, the trio is excited to announce the opening of their patio, which will be able to seat roughly 100 happy customers.